- Fabric When choosing fabric, be sure to pick something that is a heavy weight like decor fabrics or canvas, without a stretch. Be sure to find something washable and durable. I prefer 100% cotton. Once you have purchased your fabric, wash it in hot water and tumble dry. You want to remove any dye that hasn't be set, pre-shrink the fabric, and get all the manufacturing sizing and other chemicals out. Once washed and dried, be sure to iron out all the wrinkles.
- Magnets, Snaps, and Buttons I didn't put instructions in the tutorial on how to install these, just when to install these. Since the instructions can vary, please follow what is on the package. When in doubt, buy one extra and give it a try on scrap fabric first. I deliberately left out any and all zipper compartments in the purse because zippers are tricky.
- "Right Side" and "Wrong Side" The right side of the fabric is the pretty side, the part you want to see when it is all complete. The wrong side is the backside, the part you don't want to see. On prints you can easily tell the difference- the right side is bright and colorful and the wrong side is all white-ish. With solids you can't tell the difference. For these, it won't really matter which is the right and which is the wrong!
- "Sew" All seam allowances are already included. When it comes time to sew, you will use a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Some machines mark this as 4/8. I know it seems obvious for me to tell you that 4/8 = 1/2, but in heat of the sewing moment sometimes one may forget basic arithmetic. I don't judge. It happens. I always recommend you pin the fabric before you sew so it doesn't slip. When sewing through thick layers, be sure to go extra slow, use a strong denim-weight needle, and be prepared to help the machine along by turning the wheel with your hand (if necessary).
- "Turn and Press" This means taking the fabric that is inside out, and turning it right side out. Carefully using a ruler or blunt knife (like a butter knife), poke along the seams. You want the two pieces to be tight up against the seam- not have a little groove or pocket along the edge. You can either pin as you push along with the ruler to hold it in place and then press with a steam iron when done, OR you can press as you go. If you press as you go, be sure to turn the steam setting off (or you will badly burn your fingers) and once everything is dry ironed you can give it a manual shot of steam to set it. To get the corners poked out, use a chopstick or anything sturdy and thin but without a sharp point. The sharp point might poke a hole in the fabric.
- "Top Stitch" Once you have turned and pressed, you want to make sure the fabric stays where it is and doesn't slip. It also never hurts to have an extra seam to keep it strong and extra durable. You sew on the right side of the fabric, along the very edge, about 1/8" (or a smidgen less if you can manage it).
Diaper Clutch with Built-in Changing Mat
tutorial part 1
tutorial part 1
For this project you will need:
- 1 yard of heavy weight cotton fabric
- 1 yard of equal weight cotton fabric for contrast
- 2 magnetic snaps- between 1/4"-1/2" inch in diameter
- 1 closure for the bag. In this tutorial I used 2, 1-inch buttons. If you are not comfortable with making buttonholes, you can substitute 2 snaps or 2 magnetic closures. Be sure it is between 3/4"and 1" in diameter.
First Part: Cutting the Pieces
Step 1: Place your fabric on the cutting surface fully opened and flat, so it is one layer thick. Use the cutting guide to help you (if needed). The measurements are written in "top x side" order. If you want to be sure your corners are square and your rectangles aren't wonky, you can use a book, magazine, cereal box, or anything else that already has a squared corner as a tracing guide. You can pre-cut the pattern pieces onto newspaper or wrapping paper (this is especially good if you are a beginner sewer OR if you want to keep the pattern to make more than one bag). You can also draw the lines directly onto the fabric.
From the Regular Fabric Cut:
1 at 16.75" x 23.5" (for changing mat)
3 at 12"x 8.5" (for bag front, back, and flap)
2 at 5"x 10" (for bag handle)
1 at 4"x 8" (for bag tab)
1 at 27"x 6" (for bag sides and bottom)
From the Contrast Fabric Cut:
1 at 16.75" x 23.5" (for changing mat)
3 at 12"x 8.5" (for bag front, back, and flap)
1 at 27"x 6" (for bag sides and bottom)
Step 2: Take one each of the 12x8.5 rectangles from the regular and contrast fabric. We are going to cut two triangles out of the bottom of each rectangle, so please be sure the pattern is running the correct direction.
From the bottom of one piece of fabric, measure up 2.5"along each side (left and right) and make a mark (using a pen/pencil/marker). Along the bottom edge, measure 6" from either side (this will be the center point), and make a mark. Using a ruler or other straight edge, connect each side mark with the bottom center-point mark. Cut along lines. The end result should look like a jean's back pocket. Repeat these steps for the second piece of fabric.
Second Part: The Little Bits
I hate when you lose momentum by all the little unfinished pieces and parts. We are going to get these out of the way first, so we have them handy and ready to go as and when we need them.
The Bag Flap (uses the 2 pieces of 12x8.5 fabric that have been cut to a triangular bottom)
Step 1: With the right sides together, sew along both sides and the triangle bit. Leave the 12" side open.
Step 2: Clip the corners as close to the seam as possible (about 1/8").
Step 3: Turn and press. Top stitch both sides and the triangle bit. Leave the 12" side open.
Step 4: The closure of your choice will be place in the triangular portion of this the bag flap. For those using a button: Sew the button hole. You should position the button hole to end 1/2" in from the point, centered evenly between the two sides, running the same direction as the pattern (top to bottom). Be sure to make the button hole large enough to fit your chosen size button. For those using a magnetic or regular snap: Attach one half of the snap to the contrast side following the manufacturer's instructions. Position it so it sits equal distance from the two sides, and about 1/2" away from the point. Be sure to only use the contrast side and do not install through both layers of fabric. It is entirely up to you which half of the snap you use- as for me, I prefer to use the lighter weight/thinner half.
The Mat Flap (uses the 4x8 rectangle and one magnetic snap)
Step 1: Fold in half along the 8 inch side with the right side in and the wrong side out.
Step 2: Sew along the 8 inch side and one of the shorter edges. There is no need to sew along the fold. Leave one short side open for turning.
Step 3: Trim corners. Turn and press. Top stitch along both 8" sides and the sewn short side. Leave the remaining short side open.
Step 4: This is the fiddly bit. You need to install the fatter/thicker part of the two-part magnet to the end of the flap- only on one piece of fabric and NOT through both pieces. The reason this is done after it was sewn is because you want to be sure the magnet snap is placed correctly. Trust me, the fiddliness of installing it now is easier than all the measuring you need to do before the item is sewn.
The Bag Handle (uses both 5x10 rectangles)
Step 1: With right sides together, sew along both 10 inch sides. Leave both 5" open.
Step 2: Turn and press. Top stitch both 10" sides. Leave both 5"sides open.
The Bag Sides & Bottom (uses both 27x6 rectangles)
Step 1: With right sides together, sew the 6" sides. Leave both 27" sides open.
Step 2: Turn and press. Top stitch 6"sides. Leave the 27" sides open.
The Bag Front (uses 2 of the 12x8.5 rectangles- one regular and one contrast)
Step 1: Be sure to align the fabric so the patterns are both going the same direction. With right sides together, sew along one of the 12" sides. The side you sew should be the top of the fabric. Leave all other sides open. There is no need to turn and press. Do NOT top stitch.
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